owl cardigan mods
normally, i would have knit the 38 finished bust size, the medium. however, i knew i’d add at least 2″ for a button band (i like deep button bands), so i knit the 36. definitely take ease into account – we’ll be adding stitches for the steek so we don’t disturb the pattern, and then adding MORE fabric for the button band.
when casting on for the body, i added 9 extra stitches for the steek. i made it pretty wide because i was knitting with bulky yarn on large needles and it’s good to leave some wiggle room for the steek; you could go even wider if you feel inclined to do so. i wanted to use crochet as my reinforcement, which is why i used an odd number of stitches. i placed markers on either side of the steek and used the right side (as if you were wearing the sweater) as the beginning of the round.
now, i didn’t do this, but it would probably be a good idea to use a provisional cast on and skip the ribbing, and go back later and pick it up or graft it on. my reasoning is solely due to my personal preference, i think cardigans look nicer when the hem and neck ribbing are picked up from the button band.
if you choose not to, i’d at least do your ribbing as follows: either p1, k2, (p2, k2)…,p1 OR k1, p2, (k2, p2)…,k1 for symmetry.
from the beginning of the round (again, AFTER the steek stitches), the first marker is placed 24 (26, 27, 29, 30, 32) stitches in. after that, you can pretty much go from kate’s directions – this marker is the first marker A (not the beginning of the round.
so now you should be ok until the short rows! the good thing about this is that they are only on the back, so just knit over to the second marker A, and start the directions as written. this should serve you well for the second round of short rows, just put a marker in where you join the left sleeve, and you’re golden!
the only other tricky part is that it will probably help you out to stagger the owl chart just as the ribbing. begin the chart at your steek, and instead of purling 2 stitches at the beginning, purl one, and then you’ll have an extra purl stitch on the far side.
so, that’s basically what i did. if you need any resources on steeking, i’ll just throw in a little link here to the absolute best steeking resources on the internet, eunny jang’s old blog.
i altered the yoke decreases in the pattern, since i can’t stand asymmetry. instead of k2tog, k1 around, i worked the decrease row k1, ssk, k2tog, k1. i can’t decide if that was a good idea or not, but this is how it looked:
another thing visible in that photograph is that the neckline is really wide. on a pullover this looks cute, but i’m thinking about ripping it out and knitting farther upwards. of course, that would require another button. i don’t know if i want another button.
so, there you go! basically the hardest part is marker placement, after that, it’s just a matter of keeping your head on straight. ok? ok!
meanwhile, i’ve been doing some spinning! here’s my wheel in its natural habitat, next to my mess of a bookshelf and knitting paraphernalia…i can’t wait until i have a craft room.
i’m currently working on some j. knits merino roving, and i’ve come to the conclusion that i hate spinning merino! i’ve tried before and i can’t get it to stop clumping when i pre-draft it. maybe i just need more practice.